Anthony Bourdain's Soupe de Poisson

(3)

Enjoy this classic fish soup from the South of France garnished with toasts slathered with garlicky rouille.

Soupe De Poisson with Rouille
Photo:

Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Julian Hensarling / Prop Styling by Julia Bayless

Active Time:
1 hr 10 mins
Total Time:
2 hrs 10 mins
Servings:
8

The saffron, orange, fennel, and Pernod in this soup are classic flavors from seafood soups made in the South of France.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between soupe de poisson and bouillabaisse?

Both soupe de poisson and bouillabaisse come from the South of France and are seafood soups made with fennel, saffron, orange peel, and Pernod or another pastis. Bouillabaisse includes shellfish and mollusks, while soupe de poisson is made with small whole fish — often inexpensive, less popular fish. A bowl of bouillabaisse is served with pieces of fish and shellfish, but soupe de poisson more of a flavorful broth.

What is Pernod?

Pernod is a brand of pastis, an anise-flavored spirit popular in the South of France. It is often served over ice with a splash of water, which turns the clear yellow liquid milky and opaque.

What is rouille?

Rouille is a garlicky mayonnaise made with garlic, lemon, and saffron served with soupe de poisson and bouillabaisse.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Bourdain called for porgy and whiting in this soup, following the French tradition to use inexpensive, less popular "trash fish" in this recipe. You can use pieces of cod or haddock if those are available. Ask your fishmonger or grocer for the fish heads. They include a lot of meat as well as collagen, which gives the broth more viscosity.

Ingredients

  • 6 tablespoons olive oil

  • 4 garlic cloves

  • 2 small onions, thinly sliced

  • 2 leeks, white parts only, washed and thinly sliced

  • 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced

  • 1 (14-ounce) can plum tomatoes, chopped

  • 2 pounds tiny whole fish (like porgy or whiting), gutted but with heads intact

  • 6 cups water

  • 1 bouquet garni (1 parsley sprig, 2 thyme springs, and 1 bay leaf, wrapped in cheesecloth bundle)

  • 2 strips orange zest

  • 3 saffron strands

  • Salt

  • Pepper

  • 1 ounce Pernod

  • Croutons

  • Rouille

  • Grated Parmesan

Directions

  1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the garlic, onions, leeks, and fennel and let them sweat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Add the tomatoes and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes, then add the small fish. Cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 6 cups of water, as well as the bouquet garni and orange zest. Stir well; add the saffron, salt and pepper, and Pernod. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the soup for about an hour.

  2. Remove the pot from the heat and let the soup cool slightly. Taking care not to splatter or scald yourself, strain the liquid into the large bowl. In the pot, crush the heads, bones, and vegetables as much as possible, then pass them through a food mill in batches. Return the purée to the pot along with the strained broth.

  3. Heat the soup up over medium and serve with croutons, rouille, and some grated Parmesan on the side. The idea is to smear a little rouille on the croutons, float them in the soup as a garnish, and allow guests to sprinkle cheese as they wish.

Originally appeared: December 2012
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