Mushroom Ragù

Meaty mushrooms proudly stand in for meat in this vegetarian riff on the classic Italian meat sauce. Glantz uses a blend of locally sourced wild mushrooms here, but any mix of fresh mushrooms will do. However, be sure to seek out dried porcini mushrooms; after a quick soak in steaming hot water, they plump up and release their intense, heady flavor into the soaking liquid, which adds a rich depth to this sauce. For extra umami, toss in a Parmesan rind while the sauce cooks. It's a good practice to keep leftover Parmesan rinds in the freezer for just this purpose.

Mushroom Ragu
Photo: Photo by Justin Walker / Food Styling by Ali Ramee / Prop Styling by Christina Daley
Active Time:
55 mins
Total Time:
1 hr 30 mins
Yield:
5 cups

Ingredients

  • 3 cups cold water

  • 1 4/5 ounces dried porcini mushrooms (such as Borgo Val di Taro)

  • 1 pound fresh wild mushrooms (such as hen-of-the-woods, chanterelles, black trumpet, porcini, and/or hedgehog)

  • 3 tablespoons unsalted cultured butter, divided

  • ¾ cup finely diced yellow onion

  • 1 garlic clove, minced

  • 1 ½ teaspoons fine sea salt (such as Trapani Sale di Gucciardo), divided

  • ½ teaspoon black pepper, divided

  • ½ cup (4 oucne) dry white wine

  • 1 (3-inch) Parmesan cheese rind

  • 1 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Directions

  1. Pour 3 cups cold water over dried porcini in a medium bowl; let soak 30 minutes. While porcini soak, wipe wild mushrooms with a damp paper towel to remove grit. Coarsely chop wild mushrooms. Strain porcini, reserving soaking liquid. Set aside.

  2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-low. Add onion, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon sea salt, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add wild mushrooms, remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and remaining 1 teaspoon sea salt. Increase heat to medium-high; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add strained porcini and remaining 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, and stir to combine. Add wine; cook, stirring often, until wine is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add porcini soaking liquid and Parmesan rind. Gently simmer over medium-high, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are tender and liquid is mostly reduced, about 20 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Remove from heat; let cool 5 minutes. Remove Parmesan rind. Stir in chopped parsley.

Make Ahead

Ragù can be made up to 3 days ahead and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator.

Originally appeared: December 2021 / January 2022
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