Lachuch with Labneh and Za'atar

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“Oooh,” I breathed as a chef ladled a fluffy white substance into a pan. I watched as the surface bubbled up into an improbable pitted pancake that looked like the surface of the moon.When the man deftly flipped it out of the pan, it flopped onto the counter, seeming almost alive. I reached out a tentative finger; it was soft and pillowy, with a texture unlike any bread I’ve encountered before.You can find the Yemenite bread, lachuch, in every market in Israel. There’s something so hypnotic about watching the bubbles form and break that it’s little wonder there’s usually someone standing mesmerized before the flames.Yemenites eat the bread with soup (they are experts of the form), but young Israeli chefs have been finding all manner of uses for this deliciously yeasty bread. My favorite lachuch recipe iteration is a breakfast dish: covered with cool labneh while it’s still warm, then drizzled with olive oil and slathered with the herbal mixture za’atar.You can buy za’atar in any Middle Eastern spice shop. But it’s a blend, and if you like the flavor you might want to play around with various herbs to come up with one of your very own. The constant ingredients are sumac, salt, and sesame seeds. Dried thyme is usually used (za’atar is actually the Arabic word for thyme), as well as oregano or mint. Cumin is often part of the mix. Personally, I find I like the flavor that fresh oregano adds the mixture. But if you’re in a different mood, you can spread the lachuch with honey, with jam, or fold some cheese, tomatoes, and onions in for a lovely little sandwich.This spongy bread is remarkably versatile—and incredibly easy to make. Aside from allowing the yeast a few hours to work its magic, you’re basically making pancakes, except you don’t have to bother with flipping. Just like with pancakes, pay close attention to the heat of your pan. You’ll likely need to reduce the heat to give the bubbly top time to set before the bottom burns, and be sure to let the pan cool in between batches. But most importantly—don’t sweat it. Making lachuch is like riding a bike; once you get the hang of it, there will be no stopping you.

By

Mmmmm: A Feastiary. Since then, she’s published seven books, won six James Beard Awards, hosted multiple television and radio shows, and has judged more culinary competitions than anyone can count. As co-owner of the Swallow Restaurant from 1974 to 1977, she played a part in the culinary revolution that took place in Berkeley, California. In the years that followed, she was the restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times and The New York Times before serving as editor in chief of Gourmet magazine. Always on the go, Ruth lives in upstate New York with her husband, Michael Singer, a television news producer.

" tabindex="0" data-inline-tooltip="true"> Ruth Reichl

Updated on August 2, 2023

Tested by

Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Lachuch with Labneh and Za’atar — Photo: Antonis Achilleos

Active Time:

45 mins

Total Time:

1 hr 45 mins

Yield:

8

Ingredients

2 1/4 cups warm water
1 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons ground fenugreek
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup labneh
Olive oil, for drizzling
2 teaspoons za’atar

Directions

Place 2 1/4 cups warm water in a large bowl, and sprinkle in sugar and yeast. Wait for it to foam, then add flour, fenugreek, and salt. Cover with plastic wrap, and let stand until it becomes very bubbly, 1 to 2 hours. (You can do this the night before and leave it in the refrigerator; just bring it back to room temperature in the morning before starting the next step.)
Remove plastic wrap, stir in baking powder, and wait for batter to become covered in bubbles, 5 to 10 minutes.
Pour a heaping 1/3 cup batter into a cold small nonstick frying pan. Cook over medium-high until bottom is shiny and slightly brown, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low, and cook until top is set, about 2 minutes. Turn out onto a paper or cloth towel. The temperature of the pan is important here, so before making the next lachuch, run the underside of the pan under water to cool it so you are ladling the batter into a cool pan. Repeat cooking process with remaining batter.
To serve, spread each lachuch with 2 tablespoons labeneh, drizzle with olive oil, scatter 1/4 teaspoon za’atar over the top, and roll it up into a bubbly little jelly roll.